🍺 Bier Reisen 2021

29 October – 15 November 2021 · Bamberg to the Allgäu
Porto Alegre → Frankfurt → Bamberg → Nuremberg → Essing → Traunstein → Schönram → Berchtesgaden → Nesselwang → Missen-Wilhams → Munich → Frankfurt
18 days · 16 nights · 9 bases · 1,561 km driving · 21,331 km flying · 2 countries

18 days, day by day

Two flights, ten driving legs, sixteen nights and nine bases: Franconia first, then the Danube gorge, the Chiemgau, Berchtesgaden, the Allgäu and seven nights in Munich.

DAY 1 29.10.2021

Porto Alegre → Frankfurt

✈️ Flight day · overnight
📍 Google Maps
DAY 2 30.10.2021 🇩🇪 Bamberg · 2 nights

Frankfurt → Bamberg

🚗 Frankfurt Airport → Bamberg · 213 km · 2 h 18
📍 Google Maps
DAY 3 31.10.2021 🇩🇪 Bamberg · 2 nights

Bamberg

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 4 01.11.2021 🇩🇪 Nuremberg · 1 night

Bamberg → Nuremberg

🚗 Bamberg → Nuremberg · 60 km · 0 h 52
📍 Google Maps
DAY 5 02.11.2021 🇩🇪 Essing · 1 night

Nuremberg → Essing

🚗 Nuremberg → Essing · 107 km · 1 h 28
📍 Google Maps
DAY 6 03.11.2021 🇩🇪 Traunstein · 1 night

Essing → Traunstein

🚗 Essing → Traunstein · 230 km · 2 h 37
📍 Google Maps
DAY 7 04.11.2021 🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · 2 nights

Traunstein → Schönram → Berchtesgaden

🚗 Traunstein → Schönram (Petting) · 23 km · 0 h 21
📍 Google Maps
DAY 8 05.11.2021 🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · 2 nights

Berchtesgaden

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 9 06.11.2021 🇩🇪 Nesselwang · 1 night

Berchtesgaden → Nesselwang

🚗 Berchtesgaden → Nesselwang · 280 km · 3 h 20
📍 Google Maps
DAY 10 07.11.2021 🇩🇪 Missen-Wilhams · 1 night

Nesselwang → Missen-Wilhams

🚗 Nesselwang → Missen-Wilhams · 43 km · 0 h 33
📍 Google Maps
DAY 11 08.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Missen-Wilhams → Munich

🚗 Missen-Wilhams → Munich · 158 km · 1 h 58
📍 Google Maps
DAY 12 09.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 13 10.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich — west and south

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 14 11.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich — north

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 15 12.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich — craft

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 16 13.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 17 14.11.2021 🇩🇪 Munich · 7 nights

Munich

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 18 15.11.2021

Munich → Frankfurt → home

🚗 Munich → Frankfurt Airport · 404 km · 3 h 59
📍 Google Maps

The route through Bavaria

Numbered in visit order, from Frankfurt down through Franconia to the Alps and back up to Munich. The Porto Alegre legs are flights and sit outside this frame.

Franconia Danube & Chiemgau Allgäu Munich

🏆 Per-City Brewery & Bar Rankings

36 venues across 10 stops, ranked 1..n per city, with what to order at each one — the beer worth the detour, not just the closest bar.

🇩🇪 Bamberg 2 nights · Stop #3

Hotel Andres, then two days of smoke in the UNESCO old town.

🍻 Famous for: Rauchbier
1
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #1 of 6

Schlenkerla

Rauchbier since 1405 — beechwood-smoked malt served from oak barrels in a vaulted cellar.

🍺 Order this: Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen, poured in the vaulted cellar
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #2 of 6

Spezial

The Bambergers' own rauchbier: the smoke is a whisper next to Schlenkerla.

🍺 Order this: Spezial Rauchbier Lager — the quieter, more local smoke
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #3 of 6

Mahr's Bräu

The 'aU' Ungespundetes — unfiltered, naturally carbonated, the classic Franconian lager.

🍺 Order this: The aU at the Schwemme window, glass in hand
📍 Google Maps
4
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #4 of 6

Fässla

Zwergla dark lager, brewery tap opposite Spezial, open late.

🍺 Order this: Zwergla, the dark one, across from Spezial
📍 Google Maps
5
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #5 of 6

Klosterbräu

Bamberg's oldest brewery (1533); the Schwärzla is the one to order.

🍺 Order this: Schwärzla at Bamberg's oldest brewery
📍 Google Maps
6
🇩🇪 Bamberg · #6 of 6

Greifenklau

Beer garden above the city with the best view of the roofs.

🍺 Order this: Helles in the garden, with the city below
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Nuremberg 1 night · Stop #4

Leonard Hotel inside the walls; sandstone cellars under the castle.

🍻 Famous for: Rotbier, from the rock cellars
1
🇩🇪 Nuremberg · #1 of 4

Altstadthof

Hausbrauerei in the sandstone cellars under the castle — Rotbier and the rock-cut passages.

🍺 Order this: Hausbrauerei Rotbier, in the cellars cut into the sandstone
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Nuremberg · #2 of 4

Schanzenbräu

Neighbourhood brewery on the hill; unfiltered Franconian styles, taproom with long tables.

🍺 Order this: Schanzenbräu Helles, unfiltered, on the hill
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Nuremberg · #3 of 4

Tucher Mautkeller

Big vaulted cellar restaurant, Rotbier on tap, convenient on a cold night.

🍺 Order this: Tucher Rotbier in the vaulted hall
📍 Google Maps
4
🇩🇪 Nuremberg · #4 of 4

Barfüßer Hausbrauerei

Brewpub by the river with copper kettles in the room and a young crowd.

🍺 Order this: The house Pils, next to the copper kettles
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Essing 1 night · Stop #5

Gasthaus Felsenwastl on the Danube, the gorge at the door.

🍻 Famous for: Danube fish and abbey beer
1
🇩🇪 Essing · #1 of 3

Gasthaus Felsenwastl

The inn itself: Danube fish, local beer, and the river gorge at the door.

🍺 Order this: The local Landbier with Danube fish, on the terrace
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Essing · #2 of 3

Kloster Weltenburg

Benedictine abbey 10 km downstream — Asamkirche and the oldest monastery brewery in Bavaria.

🍺 Order this: Barock Dunkel in the Klosterschenke, with the Danube outside
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Essing · #3 of 3

Befreiungshalle Kelheim

Not a brewery, but the walk up is worth the afternoon before dinner.

🍺 Order this: No beer here — climb it before dinner instead
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Traunstein 1 night · Stop #6

Hotel Rosenheimer Hof — the key is in the safe by the back door.

🍻 Famous for: Chiemgau Helles and Doppelbock
1
🇩🇪 Traunstein · #1 of 2

Hofbräuhaus Traunstein

Village-scale Hofbräuhaus with its own maltings; the Hell and the Doppelbock are the local benchmarks.

🍺 Order this: The Hell, then the Doppelbock if it is in season
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Traunstein · #2 of 2

Brauerei Wieninger

Family brewery in Teisendorf, 15 km away — a half-day detour if the weather is bad.

🍺 Order this: Wieninger Hell in Teisendorf, 18 km away
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Schönram (Petting) visit · Stop #7

A 23 km detour off the Traunstein road that justifies the car.

🍻 Famous for: Schönramer Pils — bitter, floral, bone dry
1
🇩🇪 Schönram (Petting) · #1 of 1

Private Landbrauerei Schönram

One of Germany's most respected private breweries: Schönramer Pils is bitter, floral and dry — the reason to drive to Petting.

🍺 Order this: Schönramer Pils, then the Salome if the shop has it
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden 2 nights · Stop #8

Alpensport-Hotel Seimler, Maria am Berg, under the Watzmann.

🍻 Famous for: Valley Helles and the Königssee
1
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #1 of 3

Hofbrauhaus Berchtesgaden

The town's own brewery and restaurant; Helles and Dunkel brewed in the valley.

🍺 Order this: Helles, then the Dunkel, in the town's own brewery
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #2 of 3

Grassl Distillery

Enzian and fruit brandies, for the non-beer half of the evening.

🍺 Order this: Enzian — not beer, but the local firewater
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #3 of 3

Königssee

Electric boat to St. Bartholomä — the scenery half of the two days.

🍺 Order this: Nothing to drink: take the boat to St. Bartholomä
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Nesselwang 1 night · Stop #9

Brauerei-Gasthof Post: sleep above the brewhouse.

🍻 Famous for: Allgäu house beer
1
🇩🇪 Nesselwang · #1 of 1

Brauerei-Gasthof Post

Brewery and Gasthof in one building: sleep upstairs, drink the house beer downstairs.

🍺 Order this: The house Helles, from the tank, at the table above the kettle
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Missen-Wilhams 1 night · Stop #10

Brauereigasthof Schäffler, a village brewery with a wood stove.

🍻 Famous for: Young Allgäu Landbier
1
🇩🇪 Missen-Wilhams · #1 of 1

Brauereigasthof Schäffler

Allgäu village brewery with a wood-panelled Stube; a handful of beers, all served young.

🍺 Order this: Whatever is youngest — the beer does not travel far here
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Munich 7 nights · Stop #11

Hotel Italia, Schillerstraße, and the whole city by U-Bahn.

🍻 Famous for: Helles, Weißbier, and the beer gardens
1
🇩🇪 Munich · #1 of 14

Kloster Andechs

Benedictine monastery brewery above the Ammersee (45 km) — Doppelbock Dunkel and a terrace over the valley.

🍺 Order this: Doppelbock Dunkel on the terrace above the Ammersee
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Munich · #2 of 14

Weihenstephan, Freising

The world's oldest continuously operating brewery site (38 km); the Bräustüberl pours the standards.

🍺 Order this: Weihenstephaner Helles at the oldest brewery site in the world
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Munich · #3 of 14

Augustiner Bräustuben

The Augustiner brewery tap on Landsberger Straße: Edelstoff from the wooden barrel, meatloaf at the next table.

🍺 Order this: Edelstoff from the wooden barrel, with meatloaf
📍 Google Maps
4
🇩🇪 Munich · #4 of 14

Augustiner Keller

Beer garden under the chestnuts; one of the few places still pouring from wooden barrels.

🍺 Order this: Another Edelstoff, under the chestnuts
📍 Google Maps
5
🇩🇪 Munich · #5 of 14

Chinesischer Turm

Englischer Garten beer garden at the pagoda — 7,000 seats, brass band, Maß in hand.

🍺 Order this: A Maß at the pagoda, with the brass band
📍 Google Maps
6
🇩🇪 Munich · #6 of 14

Viktualienmarkt

Market beer garden in the centre, with the Maibaum overhead and a rotating brewery tap.

🍺 Order this: Whatever brewery is on the market tap this month
📍 Google Maps
7
🇩🇪 Munich · #7 of 14

Schneider Bräuhaus

Wheat-beer house on Tal: Aventinus, the original Tap 7, and a menu built for it.

🍺 Order this: Aventinus, and the Tap 7 to follow
📍 Google Maps
8
🇩🇪 Munich · #8 of 14

Paulaner Brauhaus

The Nockherberg brewpub — Salvator season if you are lucky with the calendar.

🍺 Order this: Salvator if it is March; otherwise the Helles
📍 Google Maps
9
🇩🇪 Munich · #9 of 14

Giesinger Bräu

Craft brewery in Giesing; Erhellung unfiltered Helles and a taproom full of locals.

🍺 Order this: Erhellung, unfiltered
📍 Google Maps
10
🇩🇪 Munich · #10 of 14

Hopfenhäcker

Creative brewery founded 2016 in Haidhausen, moved into the Forschungsbrauerei in Perlach in 2021.

🍺 Order this: Something hoppy and new — the creative brewery's own
📍 Google Maps
11
🇩🇪 Munich · #11 of 14

Forschungsbrauerei Bräustüberl

Perlach research brewery and taproom — the same address as Hopfenhäcker, so both in one stop.

🍺 Order this: The Forschungsbräu Helles, in the taproom next door
📍 Google Maps
12
🇩🇪 Munich · #12 of 14

Isartaler Brauhaus

Neighbourhood brewpub in the south of the city, house beers brewed on site.

🍺 Order this: The house beer, brewed in the room
📍 Google Maps
13
🇩🇪 Munich · #13 of 14

Schweiger Bräu

Private brewery in Markt Schwaben, east of the city — find it on tap around town.

🍺 Order this: Schweiger Helles on tap somewhere in town — ask which bar has it this week
📍 Google Maps
14
🇩🇪 Munich · #14 of 14

Wildbräu Grafing

Grafing's own brewery, almost a thousand years of history and eleven classic Bavarian beers.

🍺 Order this: Wildbräu Helles — eleven classic beers, almost a thousand years
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Frankfurt Airport transit · day 1 and day 18

Land, collect the car, drive east. No beer stop planned.

🍻 Famous for: Nothing — get on the road
1
🇩🇪 Frankfurt Airport · #1 of 1

Frankfurt Airport

No beer stop planned — land, collect the car, drive east. The return leg is 404 km before a long flight.

🍺 Order this: An espresso, then the A3 east
📍 Google Maps

Beer guide

Five beer regions in eighteen days: Franconian smoke and Rotbier, the Danube's abbey breweries, the Chiemgau and Berchtesgaden, the Allgäu's village lagers, and Munich's own dozen.

RegionStyles to look for
FranconiaRauchbier · Ungespundetes / Kellerbier · Rotbier · Pils · Bock
Upper Palatinate (Kelheim)Klosterbier · Hefeweizen · Dunkel
Chiemgau & BerchtesgadenHelles · Dunkel · Doppelbock · Weißbier
AllgäuLandbier · Export · Hefeweizen
MunichHelles · Edelstoff · Weißbier / Weizenbock · Doppelbock · Pils

What to order, stop by stop

StopStart hereWhy
BambergSchlenkerlaRauchbier since 1405 — beechwood-smoked malt served from oak barrels in a vaulted cellar.
NurembergAltstadthofHausbrauerei in the sandstone cellars under the castle — Rotbier and the rock-cut passages.
EssingGasthaus FelsenwastlDanube fish, local beer, and the river gorge at the door.
TraunsteinHofbräuhaus TraunsteinVillage-scale Hofbräuhaus with its own maltings; the Hell and the Doppelbock are the local benchmarks.
Schönram (Petting)Private Landbrauerei SchönramSchönramer Pils is bitter, floral and dry — the reason to drive to Petting.
BerchtesgadenHofbrauhaus BerchtesgadenThe town's own brewery and restaurant; Helles and Dunkel brewed in the valley.
NesselwangBrauerei-Gasthof Postsleep upstairs, drink the house beer downstairs.
Missen-WilhamsBrauereigasthof SchäfflerAllgäu village brewery with a wood-panelled Stube; a handful of beers, all served young.
MunichKloster AndechsBenedictine monastery brewery above the Ammersee (45 km) — Doppelbock Dunkel and a terrace over the valley.
Frankfurt AirportFrankfurt AirportNo beer stop planned — land, collect the car, drive east. The return leg is 404 km before a long flight.

Drive times

Every distance below is OSRM car routing. The two flights are great-circle distances; the times are in the air, not door to door.

1,561 kmdriving
18 h 10behind the wheel
21,331 kmflying
12legs
ModeFromTokmtime
✈️ flightPorto AlegreFrankfurt Airport10,66513 h 33
🚗 driveFrankfurt AirportBamberg2132 h 18
🚗 driveBambergNuremberg600 h 52
🚗 driveNurembergEssing1071 h 28
🚗 driveEssingTraunstein2302 h 37
🚗 driveTraunsteinSchönram (Petting)230 h 21
🚗 driveSchönram (Petting)Berchtesgaden430 h 44
🚗 driveBerchtesgadenNesselwang2803 h 20
🚗 driveNesselwangMissen-Wilhams430 h 33
🚗 driveMissen-WilhamsMunich1581 h 58
🚗 driveMunichFrankfurt Airport4043 h 59
✈️ flightFrankfurt AirportPorto Alegre10,66513 h 33

Distance matrix

Car kilometres between every pair of land stops, from matrix.pairs.

From \ ToBambergNurembergEssingTraunsteinSchönramBerchtesgadenNesselwangMissen-WilhamsMunich
Bamberg—60156342365387352364231
Nuremberg60—107281304326291303170
Essing156107—230187276238268120
Traunstein342281230—2356234264110
Schönram36530418723—43252282128
Berchtesgaden3873262765643—280310155
Nesselwang352291238234252280—43126
Missen-Wilhams36430326826428231043—158
Munich231170120110128155126158—

If you had one more day

Detours that were on the list and did not fit — measured from the nearest base.

FromDetourkmtime
EssingKloster Weltenburg100 h 15
TraunsteinTeisendorf (Wieninger)180 h 22
MunichKloster Andechs450 h 50
MunichFreising (Weihenstephan)380 h 40
MunichGrafing (Wildbräu)320 h 35
MunichMarkt Schwaben (Schweiger)250 h 30
MunichMünchen-Perlach (Forschungsbrauerei)120 h 20

What this trip taught us