🍺 Bier Reisen 2024

20 November – 5 December 2024 · Franconia, Bohemia, Advent in Munich
Porto Alegre → Frankfurt → Memmelsdorf → Plzeň → České Budějovice → Berchtesgaden → Munich → Rome → São Paulo → Porto Alegre
16 days · 13 nights · 5 bases · 1,062 km driving · 21,696 km flying · 4 countries

16 days, day by day

Three flights, six driving legs, thirteen nights and five bases: three nights outside Bamberg, two in Plzeň, one in České Budějovice, two under the Watzmann and five in Munich for Advent.

DAY 1 20.11.2024

Porto Alegre → Frankfurt

✈️ Flight day · overnight
📍 Google Maps
DAY 2 21.11.2024 🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · 3 nights

Frankfurt → Memmelsdorf

🚗 Frankfurt Airport → Memmelsdorf · 221 km · 2 h 15
📍 Google Maps
DAY 3 22.11.2024 🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · 3 nights

Memmelsdorf

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 4 23.11.2024 🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · 3 nights

Memmelsdorf

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 5 24.11.2024 🍺 Plzeň · 2 nights

Memmelsdorf → Plzeň

🚗 Memmelsdorf → Plzeň · 255 km · 2 h 32
📍 Google Maps
DAY 6 25.11.2024 🍺 Plzeň · 2 nights

Plzeň

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 7 26.11.2024 🍺 České Budějovice · 1 night

Plzeň → České Budějovice

🚗 Plzeň → České Budějovice · 136 km · 2 h 11
📍 Google Maps
DAY 8 27.11.2024 🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · 2 nights

České Budějovice → Berchtesgaden

🚗 České Budějovice → Berchtesgaden · 256 km · 3 h 05
📍 Google Maps
DAY 9 28.11.2024 🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · 2 nights

Berchtesgaden

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 10 29.11.2024 🇩🇪 Munich · 5 nights

Berchtesgaden → Munich

🚗 Berchtesgaden → Munich · 155 km · 1 h 50
📍 Google Maps
DAY 11 30.11.2024 🇩🇪 Munich · 5 nights

Munich — Advent begins

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 12 01.12.2024 🇩🇪 Munich · 5 nights

Munich

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 13 02.12.2024 🇩🇪 Munich · 5 nights

Munich — day trip

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 14 03.12.2024 🇩🇪 Munich · 5 nights

Munich

📍 In place · no driving
📍 Google Maps
DAY 15 04.12.2024

Munich → Rome → São Paulo

🚗 Munich → Munich Airport · 39 km · 0 h 35
📍 Google Maps
DAY 16 05.12.2024

São Paulo → Porto Alegre

✈️ São Paulo → Porto Alegre · 869 km · 2 h 05 in the air
📍 Google Maps

The route through Franconia & Bohemia

Numbered in visit order, from Frankfurt through Franconia and Bohemia to the Alps and back up to Munich. Rome, São Paulo and Porto Alegre are flight connections and sit outside this frame.

Franconia Bohemia Berchtesgaden Munich

🏆 Per-City Brewery & Bar Rankings

29 venues across 6 stops, ranked 1..n per city, with what to order at each one — the beer worth the detour, not just the closest bar.

🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf 3 nights · Stop #3

Six kilometres from Bamberg, between Drei Kronen and Göller.

🍻 Famous for: Village breweries with their own taprooms
1
🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · #1 of 5

Brauerei & Gasthof Drei Kronen

Brewery, Gasthof and hotel in one building in Memmelsdorf — hand-brewed Franconian beer and a few rooms upstairs.

🍺 Order this: Drei Kronen Lagerbier, brewed downstairs from the room
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · #2 of 5

Brauerei & Wirtshaus Göller

Family brewery in Memmelsdorf-Drosendorf, a short drive out; unfiltered Franconian lagers in the Wirtshaus.

🍺 Order this: Göller Landbier in the Wirtshaus in Drosendorf
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · #3 of 5

Schloss Seehof

The prince-bishops' summer palace at the edge of the village — gardens, orangery, and a walk before dinner.

🍺 Order this: No beer — the prince-bishops' garden, before dinner
📍 Google Maps
4
🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · #4 of 5

Schlenkerla, Bamberg

Six kilometres away: Rauchbier since 1405, poured from oak barrels in a vaulted cellar.

🍺 Order this: Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier Märzen, six kilometres away
📍 Google Maps
5
🇩🇪 Memmelsdorf · #5 of 5

Spezial, Bamberg

The Bambergers' rauchbier — softer smoke than Schlenkerla, and the locals' choice.

🍺 Order this: Spezial Rauchbier Lager, the softer smoke
📍 Google Maps

🇨🇿 Plzeň 2 nights · Stop #4

The town that invented pilsner, with a beer spa on the edge of it.

🍻 Famous for: Pilsner — the original
1
🇨🇿 Plzeň · #1 of 5

Pilsner Urquell (Prazdroj)

The brewery that defined the style in 1842: the tour ends in the cellars with an unfiltered, unpasteurised pour.

🍺 Order this: The unfiltered, unpasteurised pour in the cellar at the end of the tour
📍 Google Maps
2
🇨🇿 Plzeň · #2 of 5

Na Spilce

The brewery's own restaurant under the brewhouse — the freshest Prazdroj you will get outside the cellar.

🍺 Order this: Prazdroj from the tank, with goulash and bread dumplings
📍 Google Maps
3
🇨🇿 Plzeň · #3 of 5

Purkmistr, Černice

Brewery and beer spa on the edge of town: baths in wort, a house lager, and a hotel if you overdo it.

🍺 Order this: Purkmistr Helles, then the beer bath upstairs
📍 Google Maps
4
🇨🇿 Plzeň · #4 of 5

Pivovarský dům

Brewpub in the centre with its own beers and a menu built around them.

🍺 Order this: The house wheat beer, brewed on site
📍 Google Maps
5
🇨🇿 Plzeň · #5 of 5

Gambrinus

The everyday Plzeň lager, lighter and cheaper than Prazdroj, and just as local.

🍺 Order this: Gambrinus by the half-litre — cheap, fresh, everywhere
📍 Google Maps

🇨🇿 České Budějovice 1 night · Stop #5

Budvar, Samson and the old meat market on the square.

🍻 Famous for: Budweiser Budvar
1
🇨🇿 České Budějovice · #1 of 3

Budweiser Budvar

The other Budweiser: tours of 70–80 minutes through the brewhouse and the cellars, with a tasting at the end.

🍺 Order this: Budvar Original, unfiltered from the tank at the end of the tour
📍 Google Maps
2
🇨🇿 České Budějovice · #2 of 3

Budvar Samson

The city brewery on náměstí Přemysla Otakara II — dark and light, in a 19th-century building.

🍺 Order this: Samson Tmavé, the dark lager from the city brewery
📍 Google Maps
3
🇨🇿 České Budějovice · #3 of 3

Masné krámy

The old meat market turned beer hall, pouring Budvar by the metre.

🍺 Order this: Budvar by the metre, in the old meat market
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden 2 nights · Stop #6

Two nights under the Watzmann, with the Königssee 6 km away.

🍻 Famous for: Valley Helles and Alpine scenery
1
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #1 of 3

Hofbrauhaus Berchtesgaden

The town's own brewery and restaurant; Helles and Dunkel brewed in the valley.

🍺 Order this: Helles, then the Dunkel, in the town brewery
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #2 of 3

Königssee

Electric boat to St. Bartholomä — the scenery half of the two days.

🍺 Order this: Nothing to drink on the boat; take the walk to the Malerwinkel instead
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Berchtesgaden · #3 of 3

Grassl Distillery

Enzian and fruit brandies for the non-beer half of the evening.

🍺 Order this: Enzian, for the cold walk back
📍 Google Maps

🇩🇪 Munich 5 nights · Stop #7

Five nights as Advent opens: markets, halls, and one long day trip.

🍻 Famous for: Christmas markets and the big Munich breweries
1
🇩🇪 Munich · #1 of 12

Marienplatz Christkindlmarkt

The Advent market under the Glockenspiel; Glühwein in the cold, and the brewery stalls around the edges.

🍺 Order this: Glühwein in the cold, and a Helles at the brewery stall
📍 Google Maps
2
🇩🇪 Munich · #2 of 12

Tollwood

The winter festival on the Theresienwiese — food stalls, music and a long bar list.

🍺 Order this: Something from the long bar list at the winter festival
📍 Google Maps
3
🇩🇪 Munich · #3 of 12

Augustiner Bräustuben

The Augustiner brewery tap: Edelstoff from the wooden barrel, meatloaf at the next table.

🍺 Order this: Edelstoff and the meatloaf, at the long table
📍 Google Maps
4
🇩🇪 Munich · #4 of 12

Augustiner Keller

Chestnut beer garden with a winter room; still pouring from wooden barrels.

🍺 Order this: Edelstoff again — the barrel is the reason
📍 Google Maps
5
🇩🇪 Munich · #5 of 12

Hofbräuhaus

The room everyone has heard of — go early, stay for the brass band.

🍺 Order this: Hofbräu Dunkel in the upstairs room
📍 Google Maps
6
🇩🇪 Munich · #6 of 12

Schneider Bräuhaus

Wheat-beer house on Tal: Aventinus and the original Tap 7.

🍺 Order this: Aventinus Eisbock if it is on
📍 Google Maps
7
🇩🇪 Munich · #7 of 12

Viktualienmarkt

Market beer garden in the centre; in Advent the stalls turn to roasted almonds and Glühwein.

🍺 Order this: The market tap's current brewery, with roasted almonds
📍 Google Maps
8
🇩🇪 Munich · #8 of 12

Giesinger Bräu

Craft brewery in Giesing with a taproom full of locals.

🍺 Order this: The Advent seasonal, whatever it is
📍 Google Maps
9
🇩🇪 Munich · #9 of 12

Kloster Andechs

Benedictine monastery brewery above the Ammersee (45 km) — Doppelbock Dunkel and a terrace over the valley.

🍺 Order this: Doppelbock Dunkel, 45 km out
📍 Google Maps
10
🇩🇪 Munich · #10 of 12

Weihenstephan, Freising

The oldest brewery site in the world (41 km); the Bräustüberl pours the standards.

🍺 Order this: Weihenstephaner Helles at the source
📍 Google Maps
11
🇩🇪 Munich · #11 of 12

Forschungsbrauerei Bräustüberl

Perlach research brewery and taproom, with the craft crowd next door.

🍺 Order this: Forschungsbräu Helles — the brewery that lends its beer to science
📍 Google Maps
12
🇩🇪 Munich · #12 of 12

Paulaner Brauhaus

The Nockherberg brewpub — Salvator season if the calendar lines up.

🍺 Order this: Salvator in March, the Helles the rest of the year
📍 Google Maps

🇮🇹 Rome transit · connection

Fiumicino, between Munich and São Paulo. No beer stop.

🍻 Famous for: Espresso
1
🇮🇹 Rome · #1 of 1

Fiumicino connection

No beer stop: enough time for an espresso and the walk between gates.

🍺 Order this: An espresso at the gate, nothing more
📍 Google Maps

Beer guide

Four beer regions in sixteen days: Franconian smoke and village lagers, the Bohemian pilsner tradition from Plzeň to Budějovice, the Bavarian Alps, and Munich in Advent.

RegionStyles to look for
FranconiaRauchbier · Ungespundetes / Kellerbier · Pils · Bock
BohemiaPilsner · Světlý ležák · Tmavé (dark lager) · Kvasnicové (yeast beer)
BavariaHelles · Dunkel · Weißbier · Doppelbock
Munich in AdventHelles · Edelstoff · Weizenbock · Glühwein (not beer, but unavoidable)

What to order, stop by stop

StopStart hereWhy
MemmelsdorfBrauerei & Gasthof Drei KronenBrewery, Gasthof and hotel in one building in Memmelsdorf — hand-brewed Franconian beer and a few rooms upstairs.
PlzeňPilsner Urquell (Prazdroj)the tour ends in the cellars with an unfiltered, unpasteurised pour.
České BudějoviceBudweiser Budvartours of 70–80 minutes through the brewhouse and the cellars, with a tasting at the end.
BerchtesgadenHofbrauhaus BerchtesgadenThe town's own brewery and restaurant; Helles and Dunkel brewed in the valley.
MunichMarienplatz ChristkindlmarktThe Advent market under the Glockenspiel; Glühwein in the cold, and the brewery stalls around the edges.
RomeFiumicino connectionenough time for an espresso and the walk between gates.

Drive times

Every distance below is OSRM car routing. The two flights are great-circle distances; the times are in the air, not door to door.

1,062 kmdriving
12 h 28behind the wheel
21,696 kmflying
10legs
ModeFromTokmtime
✈️ flightPorto AlegreFrankfurt Airport10,66513 h 33
🚗 driveFrankfurt AirportMemmelsdorf2212 h 15
🚗 driveMemmelsdorfPlzeň2552 h 32
🚗 drivePlzeňČeské Budějovice1362 h 11
🚗 driveČeské BudějoviceBerchtesgaden2563 h 05
🚗 driveBerchtesgadenMunich1551 h 50
🚗 driveMunichMunich Airport390 h 35
✈️ flightMunich AirportRome7301 h 55
✈️ flightRomeSão Paulo9,43312 h 47
✈️ flightSão PauloPorto Alegre8692 h 05

Distance matrix

Car kilometres between every pair of land stops, from matrix.pairs.

From \ ToMemmelsdorfPlzeňČeské BudějoviceBerchtesgadenMunich
Memmelsdorf—255387388232
Plzeň255—136444288
České Budějovice387136—256336
Berchtesgaden388444256—155
Munich232288336155—

If you had one more day

Detours that were on the list and did not fit — measured from the nearest base.

FromDetourkmtime
MemmelsdorfBamberg (Schlenkerla)6.30 h 12
PlzeňKout na Šumavě74.71 h 23
České BudějoviceHluboká nad Vltavou11.60 h 15
BerchtesgadenKönigssee6.20 h 09
MunichKloster Andechs44.80 h 46
MunichFreising (Weihenstephan)40.90 h 40

What this trip taught us